Sahara and Merzouga

The Sahara is far. From Marrakesh it is a nine to ten hour drive to Merzouga, and you don't do that in one day. It is worth the drive: you sit on a hundred-meter dune watching the sun sink into the sand, and later by a fire under the stars while someone plays a drum.

Erg Chebbi is the dune field at Merzouga, near the border with Algeria. It is a sea of sand about 28 by 7 kilometers, with dunes up to 150 meters high. Desert trips often come here, because the dunes are high and easy to reach.

The road there

Day one goes over the Tizi n'Tichka pass to Aït Benhaddou and Ouarzazate, and on through the Dadès Valley with its kasbahs and rock formations. You sleep in the Dadès Gorge or near the Todra Gorge, where the walls rise 300 meters straight up. On day two you drive through the Todra Gorge and past oases and villages to Merzouga, where you arrive during the afternoon. There you switch from the car to a camel or a 4x4 and head into the dunes.

The way back to Marrakesh is long: nine hours with stops. That is why some people fly out of Errachidia or drive on to Fes, seven hours farther. That way you combine the desert with an imperial cities tour.

In the desert

The camel ride to the camp takes an hour and coincides with sunset. Camels are tall, they sway, and they are a bit stiffer than you expect. It is fun, but nobody would want to sit on one for seventeen hours. In the camp you eat a tagine, listen to Gnawa music by the fire and crawl under a pile of blankets. Get up before sunrise and walk up a dune. That half hour is what you came for.

If you have more time, visit the nomad families on the edge of the erg, the village of Khamlia with its Gnawa musicians, or the fossil workshops in Erfoud.

As a woman in a desert camp

In the desert you are with your guide, the camp crew and a handful of other guests. It feels sheltered and the mood is calm. If you are traveling alone, you may want a camp with a private bathroom and a door that locks. Those camps exist, and it helps when you need the toilet at night.

Wear long pants or a skirt and cover your shoulders. A scarf helps against the sun and the blowing sand. On the camel, pants are the most comfortable. In winter you need a hat and a warm layer at night. The packing list has a separate section for the desert, and general tips are in the guide on safety for women.

Travel time, season and Ramadan

The drive is nine to ten hours, spread over two days. For the whole trip you need at least three days; four is more relaxed.

Go between October and April. In summer it is above 45°C during the day. In December and January it can freeze at night; choose a camp with heating then. Bring a warm layer, a scarf, sunscreen, a flashlight, wet wipes and cash. There is electricity in the camp, but not always in the tent.

During Ramadan the trip runs as usual. Do keep in mind that your guide doesn't eat or drink during the day.

The three-day trip with Soukayna

On the three-day desert trip to Merzouga Soukayna drives the whole route: from Marrakesh over the pass and through the gorges to the dunes, and back again. Along the way she stops wherever you like the view, and she knows which camps keep their promises. In the desert itself the camp team takes over. Soukayna waits at the village and picks you up again the next morning. If you want four days, or want to drive on to Fes, we build that in.